Kansas City Tdi & CoolAirVw Repair
01M Transmission removal and reinstallation
01M Removal and
Reinstallation
Remove breather,
& battery. To access top area of
trans.
Remove battery tray
to access top of starter area.
Then take PS line
bracket and trans wire harness bracket off Mount bracket bolt stud. Pay attention to routing of wires and the
wiring bracket goes below the PS line bracket.
This must be assembled the correct way as you go back together to make
it right.
Unplug the
following in this pic.
1. Solenoid connector
2. G68 sensor connector
3. G22 VSS connector
4. Unscrew G22 counter clockwise to remove it so
it doesn't get broken during handling.
5. Unplug Multifunction switch.
6. Pry with even pressure upwards to pop the
shifter cable off the shifter lever.
Don’t cock it or you'll break it like this one is. Usually you don’t want to remove the bolt
"X" because you would then loose shifter cable adjustment. I suppose you could paint mark the
adjustment, then remove the bolt, and when you bolt it back up just make sure
the adjustment is the same. This might
prevent the cable end from breaking. I
just make sure to pull the cable off carefully.
7. Remove the horseshoe shaped clip from the
shifter cable, by prying it upwards.
Then take the cable out of the cable bracket and wedge or tie the
shifter cable out of the way.
Remove the G38
sensor from the trans. I don’t uplug it
from the sensor. Just remove it from the
trans and fold it with the entire trans harness into the battery tray area.
I also remove the
multifunction switch from the trans, because once I broke one while removing
the trans it because it brushed against
the car and broke it.
Remove negative
battery cable end from stud on top bell bolt
Then remove front
upper bell bolt
Then remove front
rear bell bolt.
Power steering line
has this bracket on it. Don’t remove the
PS line bolt in this pic. It’s a pain to
reinstall. Just remove the entire bracket
from the bottom starter bolt stud later when you are under the car. Also in
this pic is the harness carrier that bolts to the top starter bolt. To remove the harness carrier there is a
"latch" on the bottom. Release
the latch and push the harness carrier towards the battery area. It will slide around the harness to give you
room to take out the top starter bolt.
Here's what it
looks at when the harness carrier is pushed aside.
After the harness
carrier and harness is pushed out of the way,
you'll get a little more room to remove the top starter bolt by getting
the solenoid wire and starter cable out of the way. First remove the cap from the starter cable.
Then unplug the
solenoid wire.
Then remove the
starter cable nut and then take the cable off and fold it into the battery tray
area..
The 13mm nut that
retains the harness carrier bracket is hidden behind the harness carrier
bracket in the picture.
Remove the nut off then remove the top starter
bolt. You can do this from the top with
a ratchet, or from the bottom with a impact and a swivel, after removing the
belly pan, splash guard and wheel.
Remove the cooler and
wedge it up out of your way.
Don’t remove the
mount bolts at this point. You want to
keep the engine/trans supported by the mount as long as possible. Now jack up the car and remove the front
wheels. Be sure to support the car safely
with jack stands and I would suggest putting the wheels under the car, as a
secondary safety. Remove the belly pan
and left side splash cover.
Later in the
process you’ll be pulling the down pipe off the exhaust manifold or turbo so
first thing you should do after supporting the car with jack stands is to spray
the flange bolts down with PB Blaster or some other penetrating lube because
you don’t want the studs to break off.
Then take the power
steering line bracket off the stud on the bottom starter bolt. Then remove the starter bolt and remove the
starter.
Remove the ball
joint on the left side. I don’t remove
the right side ball joint or wheel. The holes
that the bolts pass through are slotted and you’ll need to bolt them back up in
the same location. Usually you can
reinstall the ball joint in the same location during reinstallation by looking
at rust pattern witness marks. You might
want to paint mark to locate the bolts for reinstallation. Or you can remove the ball joint nut instead
of the 3 bolts..
Note: it’s entirely possible to remove and
reinstall the entire transmission without removing the axles or ball
joints. But without at least one side
out of the way it’s difficult to work around it. I do this to make it easer.
Here's a pic
removing the LS axle bolts with the XZN (triple spline) tool. After you remove one rotate the right side
tire to get access to the next one. If
I was doing this on jackstands I would use my foot to turn the tire while
working on the left side.
I usually take the bottom
bolt out of the Left sway bar link. This
allows you to fold the axle out of the way, behind the A-arm. You could just remove the axle, but then
you’d have to have the 30mm 12 point axle socket.
Axle moved behind the
A-arm.
Note: it’s entirely possible to remove and
reinstall the entire transmission without removing the axles or ball
joints. But without at least one side
out of the way it’s difficult to work around it. I do this to make it easer.
.
Remove the Cv boot
leak shield.
Then take the xzn
bolts out of the right axle. Leave the
rear bell housing bolt alone. It will
hold the trans in place till last.
To see the torque
converter bolts while I work there I like to put a light here near the RS
A-Arm.
Up behind the right
axle stub there is a small round plastic cover.
Remove the cover then use a 15 mm to remove the 3 torque converter
bolts.
To turn the engine
over to access the toque converter nuts, use a 19mm 12 point shallow socket on
the crank pulley. If you went out of order
and pulled the mount and the motor is lower than its supposed to be then you
won’t be able to fit the ratchet in there without raising the motor.
At some point in here
you need to remove the pendulum mount.
There are 2 bolts going into the “K-member” and 2 going into the
trans. These are stretch bolts and
should be replaced on reassembly.
There
are 3 bolts that bolt the bell housing to the engine oil pan. The one in this picture is under the pendulum
mount. Then remove the other in this
picture to the left of the one being removed.
Here’s
the third bell housing to engine oil pan.
Make
sure that the rear bottom bell bolt is still in place and tight. You don’t want the trans falling out on
you.
At
this point you’ll need to support the motor.
On the lift I just put a stand under the oil pan but if you working on
jack stands its best to use and engine hanger.
Then
pull the 2 mount bolts in this pic.
The
remove the 3 mount bracket to trans bolts, and pull the mount out the top.
I
don’t have a pic but you’ll need to remove the down pipe to turbo or Exhaust
manifold nuts. This is to allow
movement in the engine as it hangs. The
engine must move forward give the trans clearance past the “k-member” or else
you’ll have a real difficult time getting the trans down and out.
Finally
support the trans with a trans jack.
Take a ratchet strap and strap the trans down to the jack to make sure
it doesn’t fall on you.
Before
you install the new trans make sure the threads on the torque converter studs
are not damaged by starting a nut on
each one. It would be a shame to install
the trans then end up having to pull it back out because a nut wont go on the
torque converter
Make
sure there are no cracks in the flywheel, or major chips in the teeth. Check or replace the engine rear main seal.
Make sure both engine to trans alignment dowels are in place. Note: add
pic later. If they are not then your converter hub may wear out the bushing
causing pump fail or front seal leak.
Make
sure the converter is in all the way. See my page on converter installation
depth. Also after you mate
the engine to the trans you need to confirm that you have clearance, by
wiggling the converter. If the converter is in all the way then the
converter move freely with just hand effort, and as you wiggle and you will
hear the converter studs bang back and forth inside the flywheel holes. If not pull the trans back
out!
If
you’re replacing the trans be sure to use the cooler off of the new trans. The old cooler could be contaminated our
clogged from clutch material or metal from the failing trans, and you don’t want
that causing problems with the new trans.
For
filling see the 01m fluid and filter change information.
Be
sure to see our 01m
FAQ